Writing about Bandhavgarh wasn’t easy. I wasn’t sure where to begin. Should I describe the beauty of the jungle that’s home to huge Sal trees and small nullahs that traverse through the vegetation, or should I talk about the vast grasslands that conceal both predator and prey? Perhaps I should begin with the astonishingly high tiger movement and instances of pugmarks everywhere that make Bandhavgarh unique or mention the safari through the forest on a cold winter morning that began with a drive through the grasslands and ended up with the jeep negotiating some steep, rocky curves like a mountain goat.
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| Spotty calling out to her cubs |
Our journey began with two plane rides ( from Bangalore to Hyderabad and Hyderabad to Jabalpur) and a 3-hour drive to Umaria district in Madhya Pradesh, after which we finally reached our resort that was located at a convenient 15-minute drive from the famous Tala zone. Exhausted as we were, we couldn’t wait for the safaris to begin.
Boasting the highest tiger density in the world, Bandhavgarh National Park gets its name from the Bandhavgarh Fort that’s nearly 2000 years old. Of the 3 zones in the core area, namely Tala, Magadhi and Khitauli, Tala is most popular owing to the high probability of spotting the majestic tiger, closely followed by Magadhi. Considering this was our first visit to Bandhavgarh, we wanted nothing but the best and naturally chose Tala.
The diverse vegetation of the Tala Zone allures you with its lakes set against the backdrop of vast hills and endless grasslands. If you’re fortunate enough to drive through this part of the forest towards the end of your safari, you can witness the captivating sunset that envelopes the tall grass in its warm glow.
The Tala Zone is further divided into 4 routes, i.e A, B, C and D according to their respective carrying capacities and to further regulate the number of vehicles that enter the park. Although each route has its resident tigers, we were hoping to spot one of the most photographed and bold tigresses in recent times - Spotty. As we entered the B route on that memorable day, little did we know that a treat awaited us. Following a rather uneventful hour, we’d resigned ourselves to the fact that the rest of the safari would be like the first half, with nothing to see but a couple of chital grazing peacefully.
As we drove on, with just 30 minutes to go before we were to head back, we spied a couple of safari vehicles congregated at a bend, the people excitedly clicking pictures. Not to miss out on the action, we caught up with them, only to find two of Spotty’s daughters regaling in the limelight as the tourists furiously clicked away.
My husband and I whipped out our cameras and tried to get a good shot, only to be blocked by several safari jeeps that simply refused to budge. My heart sank at the prospect of going back without a single good picture of two nearly grown tigresses in a single frame. That’s when our driver, a burly man who knew that jungle and its denizens like the back of his hand, stuck the gear into reverse and backed up in the opposite direction.
“Why are we going away from all the action?” I asked, flummoxed.
“Patience madam. You’ll get some great shots in some time,” was all he said. A man of few words, our determined driver purposefully drove ahead, while we kept our cameras ready, just in case an opportunity presented itself. We soon reached a bend, to the left of which were trees and tall grass, while the right had a small, dry streambed surrounded by more trees. Here we came to a halt, the occupants of our jeep still and alert for the smallest movement or sound.
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| One of Spotty's sub-adult cubs responds to her mother's calls |
Sure enough, a few seconds later, emerged a tigress, walking nonchalantly towards the track. Sniffing the air, she moaned, her deep throated calls reverberating through the forest.
“She’s calling out to her cubs,” whispered our driver.
I was trembling with excitement. The two large, female sub-adult cubs, upon hearing their mother call bounded happily towards her, closely followed by the third one. I hoped for one tiger, and managed to see four instead! This encounter, however, wasn’t just about photography. It was also a valuable and rare lesson on tiger behavior in the wild. Until now, I’d only read about how social tigers can be. Although solitary hunters, they have a very strong family structure and bond. This was evident when the mother, none other than the popular Spotty, licked and nuzzled her cubs for a very long time. The cubs, gamboling playfully, were oblivious to their human audience. Our reverie was broken by the driver who reminded us that it was time to exit the reserve. As we proceeded to the exit, my heart longing to spend a little more time with this family of tigresses, I knew that on our next visit, we probably wouldn’t see them together.
Nature grooms every animal for survival and procreation. In the case of tigers, once the cubs are old enough to hunt on their own, normally when they’re between 24 to 30 months old, the mothers push them out of their territory. It is very common for the dominant adult offspring to fight and often win over their mother’s territory, relegating the older female to the fringes or in search of a new place to mate and litter once again. It’s a tough battle for survival out there; but such is life in the jungle. Whether Spotty’s cubs will survive another monsoon by themselves and carry her strong genetic pool forward or if they’ll succumb to the perils that await them, only time can tell. Until such time, we were content in the knowledge that they had a couple of more months of frolicking and hunting lessons ahead of them.
