800 Kilometers and One Bike: Part II

As promised, I’m back with part II of 800 kilometers and One Bike.

In the first part of the blog, I described our ride from Bangalore to Bhadravati and to Chikmagalur. Now it was time for the second part of road trip from Chikmagalur to Kudremukh and back. Thankfully, this time, the cumbersome backpack was left behind at the homestay in Chikamaglur, and it was a relief to cover this stretch with nothing more than some water and a couple of biscuits in a small bag.

The plan was to cover the 212 kilometer (including the ride back to Chikmagalur) ride in one day, and return to the homestay well before dinnertime. After a hearty breakfast of Shavige bhath (rice vermicelli) and coffee, we were on our way to the abandoned ghost-town of Kudremukh.

First things first, anyone who visits Chikmagalur simply must add Bhadra Coffee Shop to their itinerary. A refreshing change from the loud, colorful, and overpriced coffee shops that are mushrooming in the city and along the highways, this quaint little place is just what the doctor prescribed for coffee lovers. If coffee is not your "cup of tea" then you can always sample the lemon juice, the greasy bread-omelette or the hot holige, among other delicious snacks this place has to offer. Located on the Sringeri-Chikamaglur State Highway, the coffee at Bhadra Coffee Shop is as fresh as it gets. I say this because this coffee shop is located right in the middle of a coffee estate. It can't get better than this. But it does! Besides being freakishly easy on the pocket, the place is clean and has simple outdoor seating, ensuring you enjoy your cuppa while listening to the sounds of the jungle.

As much as we enjoyed our little break at the Bhadra Coffee Shop, we still had a long ride ahead of us and decided it was time to leave. The skies were clear and gave no indication of the bad weather that was in store for us on our way back. But we’ll come to that later. One of the famous trekking destinations in the South of the Indian peninsula, Kudremukh derives its name from the shape of the hill, which looks like the face of a horse. Hence the name Kudremukh, or "horse face". Rich in wildlife, the Kudremukh National Park is a Global Tiger Conservation Priority center and boasts a thriving tiger population (although we didn’t see much wildlife on that trip). We maintained a steady speed of 60-90 kmph, slowing down at the bends at regular intervals. With every passing kilometer, the forest seemed denser, with massive trees and thick shrubs nodding their heads in the cool breeze that was blowing. The ride was simply spectacular!

The road, at one point, forks, with the left fork going towards Agumbe. Although we were very tempted to visit Agumbe, we simply did not have the time to make that detour. My suggestion for someone who plans a ride to Kudremukh, is to also visit Agumbe, one of the most picturesque places in Karnakata. The rainforest boasts several waterfalls, and the vegetation in many places is so thick that it’s impenetrable. However, Agumbe was not on the itinerary, and we continued towards Kudremukh. Bordering the Arabian Sea, the view as you ascend is simply breathtaking! You can also stop by at the Lakya Dam, built by the Kudremukh Iron Ore Company Limited (KIOCL), for some pictures.

On reaching Kudremukh, I was slightly disappointed. The town lies abandoned, with the ghosts of its past sadly beckoning visitors to witness what might have once been a thriving township. It was sad to see the staff quarters standing tall and proud, but ringing hollow with the sounds of the days gone by. We parked the motorcycle and walked towards what looked like a restaurant. Hungry and tired, some food would definitely help. More disappointment awaited.

The staff at the makeshift restaurant in the abandoned office told us that lunch was only rasam, rice and pickle. While I had not expected a 3-course meal, I had definitely not signed up for some strangely sticky rice and watery rasam. However, my rumbling stomach told me it wasn't the time for snobbery and that I should simply make do with whatever was available. After the meal and a bathroom break, we decided it was time to head back to Chikmagalur.

Barely 20 kilometers later, the clouds that looked white, cheerful and fluffy an hour ago, now looked dark and angry. Soon enough, big, stinging drops of rain had us completely soaked in less than 10 minutes. Stopping in the middle of the forest for shelter was out of question; so we decided that the sensible thing to do was to ride on. We weren't prepared for a downpour of this sort and the jackets offered little protection. To add our misery was the low visibility. Still, we rode on, slowly and cautiously, because one wrong turn or slip, we’d find ourselves tumbling downhill. I don’t know if it was that thought or the incessant rains that made me shudder.

But it's the rains that bring out the beauty of the forest. Rich in flora and fauna, the protected forests are home to a wide range of animal, bird, and insect species. In fact, a trek through the forests and you may just end up with leeches enjoying a hemoglobin-rich meal that’s generously provided by you! Thankfully, that wasn't something we had to worry about.

It was near dusk by the time we reached Chikmagalur, and we were really looking forward to a hot meal of biryani and kebabs that our hostess has promised. Satiated and happy, I drifted off into the night, dreaming of jungles and motorcycle rides.

The Where, When and What:

Where to Stay: You could stay at one of the hotels/ homestays in Chikmagalur. The other options are the resorts and retreats at the foothills of Kudremukh, although I cannot vouch for those.

When to Go: If you’re planning to ride up, the best time will be between October and February, when the sun isn't beating down mercilessly. Be prepared for unpredictable downpours though.

What to Do: Kudremukh is popular among trekkers; although special permits from the Forest Department are required. You can also visit Lakya Dam and the Hanuman Gundi Waterfalls.

800 Kilometers and One Bike: Part I

After a 600 something kilometer (two way) trip to Ooty on a gearless scooter, we’d just not had enough. We longed for something more, something different from the usual car trips we took. So, we decided it was time for the Honda Unicorn to make its debut. This time we zeroed in on the Bhadravati-Chikmagalur- Kudremukh belt, in 5 days.

The Unicorn was longing to stretch its legs and so were we; although, the first 100 kilometers later we realized that there wasn’t much leg-stretching for us. A fully loaded petrol tank, and a fully loaded backpack later (oh what a dumb thing to do!) we were off on a crisp October morning. This was to be the first 270 kilometers of our journey where via Tumkur,- Arasikere- Kadur – Birur – Tarikere, and finally Bhadravati, where we planned on staying the night at Jungle Lodge’s River Tern resorts. The roads were great, and the weather perfect. Our loyal steed devoured the distance hungrily.

Our first and only break, Café Coffee Day near Arsikere. Hunger was the least of my problems. I was paying for my lack of common sense. Instead of using saddle bags as is the norm, I was carrying a massive backpack, and the strain from the excessive weight started to show. My shoulders hurt, and my lower back felt numb. It served me right, I suppose, for not doing my homework and going with the decision to carry loads of clothes, and other knick-knacks on my back.

But the excitement of the trip, a strong coffee and some stale sandwiches later, I felt much better and was rearing to go. The route was simply picturesque, with beautiful sunflower and paddy fields, and clear blue skies to keep us company. The unpolluted air and sparse traffic was a refreshing change after battling peak hour traffic every day in Bangalore. The rest of the journey was uneventful, barring a small potholed stretch just before the Lakkavalli Dam.

The River Tern property is one of Jungle Lodge’s best, albeit expensive, ones. Overlooking the Bhadravathi River, you can either choose to stay in the cottages nearest to the "gol ghar", where the food is served or in one of the cottages on an island. We choose the latter. I'm not going to dwell too much on how our stay at Jungle Lodges was or the details of the Jeep and boat safari. But I must stress on the fact that the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, a Project Tiger reserve, is a lot denser than either Bandipur or Nagarhole. Enveloped by a thick canopy of trees, you must be really lucky to spot any wildlife at all. Besides a few peacock, we did manage to glimpse a herd of the gaur and the usual population of chital. To be fair, it's a place that's suitable for bird watchers.

Moving on to phase 2 of our motorcycle trip. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast of eggs, toast, and a steaming cup of tea, we started for Chikmagalur. Refreshed after a good night's sleep, a shower (did I mention the bathroom has a one-way glass wall, which overlooks the expansive jungle?) and a good meal, I was determined not to let the steady drizzle dampen my spirits. The skies were grey, and it didn't seem like the sun was in any hurry to make an appearance.

The roads were slippery and wet, curving right through the rain-kissed forests. Our Unicorn hugged the hilly bends with strange familiarity, swallowing curve after curve as we sped ahead. At one point we simply had to stop, just to gawk at the massive trees that appeared to touch the sky. Besides cutting right through the Bhadra forest, this is one of the most scenic and traffic-free routes that you can take from Lakkavalli to Chikmagalur. Eighty-three kilometers, some tree-gawking and endless photo-sessions later, we reached Chikmagalur just in time for lunch.

End of day 2; it was time to give the bike and ourselves some rest. Moreover, my shoulders ached and my legs felt sore. Definitely time to call it a day. I went to bed that night, dreaming about the long ride to Kudremukh that awaited us the next day. From what I’d heard, it was going to be a challenging, yet memorable ride to the mighty Kudremukh range. Little did I know then that God was chuckling, making his own plans that involved riding through the dense jungles, soaked to the bone!

Click here for part II of 800 Kilometers and One Bike.

The Where, When, What, and How:

Where to Stay: The best place to stay at Bhadra will be Jungle Lodges’ River Tern resort. Undoubtedly, they have the best boat and jeep safaris and great rooms. It’s this monopoly, however, that eggs them on to quote exorbitant prices. Chikamaglur has plenty of homestays that are easy on the pocket. We stayed at Nature Craft Homestay. They offer simple, home-cooked food and
clean rooms.

When to Go: If you’re planning to ride up, the best time will be between October and February, when the sun isn’t beating down mercilessly.

What to Do: You can visit the Lakkavalli Dam. But don’t miss the jeep and boat safaris, which are great if bird-watching is something you enjoy. Chikamaglur, on the other hand, has plenty of places to visit. You can drive up to the Muthodi Wildlife Sanctuary or hire a cab to Mullayanagiri, which is the highest peak in Karnataka.

How to Get There: The simplest route from Bangalore is via Tumkur,- Arasikere- Kadur – Birur – Tarikere, and finally Bhadravati. To go from Bhadravati to Chikamaglur, you must take the awesome route from Lakkavalli that goes right through the lush, green jungles.