800 Kilometers and One Bike: Part I

After a 600 something kilometer (two way) trip to Ooty on a gearless scooter, we’d just not had enough. We longed for something more, something different from the usual car trips we took. So, we decided it was time for the Honda Unicorn to make its debut. This time we zeroed in on the Bhadravati-Chikmagalur- Kudremukh belt, in 5 days.

The Unicorn was longing to stretch its legs and so were we; although, the first 100 kilometers later we realized that there wasn’t much leg-stretching for us. A fully loaded petrol tank, and a fully loaded backpack later (oh what a dumb thing to do!) we were off on a crisp October morning. This was to be the first 270 kilometers of our journey where via Tumkur,- Arasikere- Kadur – Birur – Tarikere, and finally Bhadravati, where we planned on staying the night at Jungle Lodge’s River Tern resorts. The roads were great, and the weather perfect. Our loyal steed devoured the distance hungrily.

Our first and only break, Café Coffee Day near Arsikere. Hunger was the least of my problems. I was paying for my lack of common sense. Instead of using saddle bags as is the norm, I was carrying a massive backpack, and the strain from the excessive weight started to show. My shoulders hurt, and my lower back felt numb. It served me right, I suppose, for not doing my homework and going with the decision to carry loads of clothes, and other knick-knacks on my back.

But the excitement of the trip, a strong coffee and some stale sandwiches later, I felt much better and was rearing to go. The route was simply picturesque, with beautiful sunflower and paddy fields, and clear blue skies to keep us company. The unpolluted air and sparse traffic was a refreshing change after battling peak hour traffic every day in Bangalore. The rest of the journey was uneventful, barring a small potholed stretch just before the Lakkavalli Dam.

The River Tern property is one of Jungle Lodge’s best, albeit expensive, ones. Overlooking the Bhadravathi River, you can either choose to stay in the cottages nearest to the "gol ghar", where the food is served or in one of the cottages on an island. We choose the latter. I'm not going to dwell too much on how our stay at Jungle Lodges was or the details of the Jeep and boat safari. But I must stress on the fact that the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, a Project Tiger reserve, is a lot denser than either Bandipur or Nagarhole. Enveloped by a thick canopy of trees, you must be really lucky to spot any wildlife at all. Besides a few peacock, we did manage to glimpse a herd of the gaur and the usual population of chital. To be fair, it's a place that's suitable for bird watchers.

Moving on to phase 2 of our motorcycle trip. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast of eggs, toast, and a steaming cup of tea, we started for Chikmagalur. Refreshed after a good night's sleep, a shower (did I mention the bathroom has a one-way glass wall, which overlooks the expansive jungle?) and a good meal, I was determined not to let the steady drizzle dampen my spirits. The skies were grey, and it didn't seem like the sun was in any hurry to make an appearance.

The roads were slippery and wet, curving right through the rain-kissed forests. Our Unicorn hugged the hilly bends with strange familiarity, swallowing curve after curve as we sped ahead. At one point we simply had to stop, just to gawk at the massive trees that appeared to touch the sky. Besides cutting right through the Bhadra forest, this is one of the most scenic and traffic-free routes that you can take from Lakkavalli to Chikmagalur. Eighty-three kilometers, some tree-gawking and endless photo-sessions later, we reached Chikmagalur just in time for lunch.

End of day 2; it was time to give the bike and ourselves some rest. Moreover, my shoulders ached and my legs felt sore. Definitely time to call it a day. I went to bed that night, dreaming about the long ride to Kudremukh that awaited us the next day. From what I’d heard, it was going to be a challenging, yet memorable ride to the mighty Kudremukh range. Little did I know then that God was chuckling, making his own plans that involved riding through the dense jungles, soaked to the bone!

Click here for part II of 800 Kilometers and One Bike.

The Where, When, What, and How:

Where to Stay: The best place to stay at Bhadra will be Jungle Lodges’ River Tern resort. Undoubtedly, they have the best boat and jeep safaris and great rooms. It’s this monopoly, however, that eggs them on to quote exorbitant prices. Chikamaglur has plenty of homestays that are easy on the pocket. We stayed at Nature Craft Homestay. They offer simple, home-cooked food and
clean rooms.

When to Go: If you’re planning to ride up, the best time will be between October and February, when the sun isn’t beating down mercilessly.

What to Do: You can visit the Lakkavalli Dam. But don’t miss the jeep and boat safaris, which are great if bird-watching is something you enjoy. Chikamaglur, on the other hand, has plenty of places to visit. You can drive up to the Muthodi Wildlife Sanctuary or hire a cab to Mullayanagiri, which is the highest peak in Karnataka.

How to Get There: The simplest route from Bangalore is via Tumkur,- Arasikere- Kadur – Birur – Tarikere, and finally Bhadravati. To go from Bhadravati to Chikamaglur, you must take the awesome route from Lakkavalli that goes right through the lush, green jungles.