800 Kilometers and One Bike: Part II

As promised, I’m back with part II of 800 kilometers and One Bike.

In the first part of the blog, I described our ride from Bangalore to Bhadravati and to Chikmagalur. Now it was time for the second part of road trip from Chikmagalur to Kudremukh and back. Thankfully, this time, the cumbersome backpack was left behind at the homestay in Chikamaglur, and it was a relief to cover this stretch with nothing more than some water and a couple of biscuits in a small bag.

The plan was to cover the 212 kilometer (including the ride back to Chikmagalur) ride in one day, and return to the homestay well before dinnertime. After a hearty breakfast of Shavige bhath (rice vermicelli) and coffee, we were on our way to the abandoned ghost-town of Kudremukh.

First things first, anyone who visits Chikmagalur simply must add Bhadra Coffee Shop to their itinerary. A refreshing change from the loud, colorful, and overpriced coffee shops that are mushrooming in the city and along the highways, this quaint little place is just what the doctor prescribed for coffee lovers. If coffee is not your "cup of tea" then you can always sample the lemon juice, the greasy bread-omelette or the hot holige, among other delicious snacks this place has to offer. Located on the Sringeri-Chikamaglur State Highway, the coffee at Bhadra Coffee Shop is as fresh as it gets. I say this because this coffee shop is located right in the middle of a coffee estate. It can't get better than this. But it does! Besides being freakishly easy on the pocket, the place is clean and has simple outdoor seating, ensuring you enjoy your cuppa while listening to the sounds of the jungle.

As much as we enjoyed our little break at the Bhadra Coffee Shop, we still had a long ride ahead of us and decided it was time to leave. The skies were clear and gave no indication of the bad weather that was in store for us on our way back. But we’ll come to that later. One of the famous trekking destinations in the South of the Indian peninsula, Kudremukh derives its name from the shape of the hill, which looks like the face of a horse. Hence the name Kudremukh, or "horse face". Rich in wildlife, the Kudremukh National Park is a Global Tiger Conservation Priority center and boasts a thriving tiger population (although we didn’t see much wildlife on that trip). We maintained a steady speed of 60-90 kmph, slowing down at the bends at regular intervals. With every passing kilometer, the forest seemed denser, with massive trees and thick shrubs nodding their heads in the cool breeze that was blowing. The ride was simply spectacular!

The road, at one point, forks, with the left fork going towards Agumbe. Although we were very tempted to visit Agumbe, we simply did not have the time to make that detour. My suggestion for someone who plans a ride to Kudremukh, is to also visit Agumbe, one of the most picturesque places in Karnakata. The rainforest boasts several waterfalls, and the vegetation in many places is so thick that it’s impenetrable. However, Agumbe was not on the itinerary, and we continued towards Kudremukh. Bordering the Arabian Sea, the view as you ascend is simply breathtaking! You can also stop by at the Lakya Dam, built by the Kudremukh Iron Ore Company Limited (KIOCL), for some pictures.

On reaching Kudremukh, I was slightly disappointed. The town lies abandoned, with the ghosts of its past sadly beckoning visitors to witness what might have once been a thriving township. It was sad to see the staff quarters standing tall and proud, but ringing hollow with the sounds of the days gone by. We parked the motorcycle and walked towards what looked like a restaurant. Hungry and tired, some food would definitely help. More disappointment awaited.

The staff at the makeshift restaurant in the abandoned office told us that lunch was only rasam, rice and pickle. While I had not expected a 3-course meal, I had definitely not signed up for some strangely sticky rice and watery rasam. However, my rumbling stomach told me it wasn't the time for snobbery and that I should simply make do with whatever was available. After the meal and a bathroom break, we decided it was time to head back to Chikmagalur.

Barely 20 kilometers later, the clouds that looked white, cheerful and fluffy an hour ago, now looked dark and angry. Soon enough, big, stinging drops of rain had us completely soaked in less than 10 minutes. Stopping in the middle of the forest for shelter was out of question; so we decided that the sensible thing to do was to ride on. We weren't prepared for a downpour of this sort and the jackets offered little protection. To add our misery was the low visibility. Still, we rode on, slowly and cautiously, because one wrong turn or slip, we’d find ourselves tumbling downhill. I don’t know if it was that thought or the incessant rains that made me shudder.

But it's the rains that bring out the beauty of the forest. Rich in flora and fauna, the protected forests are home to a wide range of animal, bird, and insect species. In fact, a trek through the forests and you may just end up with leeches enjoying a hemoglobin-rich meal that’s generously provided by you! Thankfully, that wasn't something we had to worry about.

It was near dusk by the time we reached Chikmagalur, and we were really looking forward to a hot meal of biryani and kebabs that our hostess has promised. Satiated and happy, I drifted off into the night, dreaming of jungles and motorcycle rides.

The Where, When and What:

Where to Stay: You could stay at one of the hotels/ homestays in Chikmagalur. The other options are the resorts and retreats at the foothills of Kudremukh, although I cannot vouch for those.

When to Go: If you’re planning to ride up, the best time will be between October and February, when the sun isn't beating down mercilessly. Be prepared for unpredictable downpours though.

What to Do: Kudremukh is popular among trekkers; although special permits from the Forest Department are required. You can also visit Lakya Dam and the Hanuman Gundi Waterfalls.