Part of the Pir Panjal mountain range in the Himalayas, this treacherous stretch between Manali and Leh is aptly named. Trucks falling into deep gorges, cars veering off the slippery sleet, or landslides brought on by the sudden change in weather, there are quite a few options to choose from, if an early retirement from life is on your mind. Yet, the sheer beauty of this place, the little streams that appear unexpectedly as you drive along, and adrenaline rush that's part of this memorable experience, attracts scores of tourists every year.
After the 'heart-in-my-mouth' journey from Delhi to Manali, I hoped that the nearly 18 hour, hair-rising bus drive, with someone's nauseous 'mummyji' throwing-up endlessly, was worth it. When I held snow for the first time in my life, I can say it certainly was worth all the trouble.
My husband and I hired a Toyota Qualis for our trip to Rohtang Pass. Our driver, a jovial man of nearly 50, chatted animatedly as we enjoyed the start of the 51 kilometer drive. En-route we stopped to rent the waterproof jumpsuits and gloves that are a must if you want to use your limbs again. The weather was lovely, the skies clear, and the day just seemed great. Thirty minutes later, it was a different story. As soon as we crossed the bridge over the Beas river, I had my eyes tightly shut, because I couldn't bear to look outside. To make things worse, one mistake meant falling right into a gorge that looked dark, forbidding, and endless.
"At least the visibility is good," I thought to myself. Those who frequent the mountains often say that the weather can change in seconds. That's exactly what happened. Fog started to descend gradually, enveloping us in its lethal embrace. Our highly skilled driver (still chatting away) expertly manoeuvred the Quails over rocks and slush, not once taking his eyes off the road.
To cut a long story short, we nearly made it in one piece. But the journey wasn't over yet. We hopped off from the vehicle, and hopped on to the ponies that were to take us to the highest point. The weather was flirting with us again. The fog, which had cleared, was back. To ensure everyone stayed together, the guide tied the ponies one behind another and gave the first one a pat on its rump. Off it went, trotting with the sure-footed grip of a mountain goat, while the others followed at a steady pace. The fact that I couldn't see a thing wasn't as worrying as being tilted at a 45 degree angle sometimes when the animal needed to negotiate narrow, sloping curves. I was both petrified and excited at the same time.
Although I've heard and read so much of the beauty of this place, nothing can do justice to the actual experience. It was simply breathtaking! The white and grey snow-capped mountains, the biting cold weather, and the majesty of the Himalayas can make you feel like a tiny, insignificant speck.
The altitude and the excitement had certainly given me an appetite. What's amazing is that, despite the perilous weather and road conditions, you actually have vendors selling hot, extraordinarily sweet tea, and Maggi noodles. Normally, I'd turn my nose at Maggi noodles, or not take more than half a teaspoon of sugar in my tea, but 'normal' is overrated. When I close my eyes, I can still smell the aroma of noodles wafting towards me as I stood salivating at the prospect of sinking my teeth into a hot bowlful. The steaming glass of tea, with enough sugar to send me bouncing off the rocks, was like a warm blanket on a rainy day.
Manali has a lot to offer apart from Rohtang Pass.There's the great food,the Hadimba Devi temple , and Pandoh Dam, among other places. For me, however, the highlight of my trip was the drive and visit to Rohtang Pass.
I strongly believe that there are some vacations that simply fill up the photo album, and some that make memories. For those of you who haven't been to Rohtang, I'd say "go on, make some memories!"
The Where, When, What, and How:
Where to Stay: Manali has plenty of budget as well as luxury hotels. You can choose depending on how much you want to lighten your pocket. Check out TripAdvisor for more.
When to Go: Tourists are allowed to visit from June to October. It remains closed during the rest of the year, owing to the heavy snowfall and blizzards.
What to Do: Although tourism websites advertise adventure sports like skiing and snow-mobiles, here's a tip – The skiing is rudimentary and the snow-mobiles are fun as long as you don't mow down a tourist.
How to Get There: The simplest route is from Delhi to Manali via road. But, don't expect the buses to be on time. On reaching Manali, you can hire a local taxi that will take you to Rohtang Pass.
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