Nandi Hills: A Bird Watcher's Paradise

Back in the 80’s and some part of the early 90’s, Bangalore was a city that operated at an unhurried, relaxed pace. The lack of malls and shopping centers meant that weekends were spent either climbing trees in Lalbagh or riding the emancipated ponies in Cubbon Park. We’d wait for the summer holidays because this meant a special treat in the form of a day trip to Nandi Hills. We’d squeeze into my uncle’s vintage car and drive up, stopping multiple times either because the radiator threatened to erupt like a volcano or someone had motion sickness. Once we were afflicted with the disease called ‘growing up’, no one had the time nor inclination to drive to this picturesque piece of paradise.

Bulbul 

So nearly 20 years later, I revisited this holiday destination from my childhood at the behest of my husband, who’d never been here before. Of course, it would’ve been silly to expect the place to look the same. That said, the degree of change amazed me. To begin with, I was very surprised at the sheer number of people who’d thronged to watch the sunrise or check out Tippu Sultan’s summer retreat. Our agenda for the trip was, however, something else.  

Armed with our cameras, we broke away from the crowd and began exploring the vegetation for birds. I’d heard from a couple of our friends that Nandi Hills was a great place to photograph birds.  Although we heard a cacophony of bird calls, spotting them wasn’t easy because they’d hop onto to the highest branch at the slightest sound of a human voice. Apparently, some of the birds that are endemic to the Western Ghats are found here. Eager to leave the people and the innumerable monkeys behind, we looked for quieter places where we’d most likely find our feathered friends. Soon we found ourselves in a nursery attached to a small park. Attracted by the chirping and singing from within the trees, we tiptoed inside and stayed absolutely silent.

The Paradise Flycatcher

Sure enough, our patience paid off and we managed to get some wonderful shots of a bird that had long eluded us  - the Paradise Flycatcher. Although we’ve been on many trips to the jungles along the Western Ghats of Karnataka, somehow this species of the Flycatcher has dodged all our attempts to capture it. Little did we know that there was one right in the backyard of the city. We managed to get some beautiful shots of not just the Paradise Flycatcher, but also a couple of other birds including a Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, some Bulbuls, and a Grey-collard Oriole, among a host of beautiful birds that throng the hills. If you’re into some serious birding, then you’d understand when I say that this is just the tip of the iceberg. There are so many species of birds that have made Nandi Hills their home, and we’re yet to photograph more than half, giving us all the more reason to come back.

That said, if birding is not your thing, then you could do a little bit of time travel as well. While the crumbling relics do little to take you back in time, they stand testimony to what was once Tippu’s Tashk-e-Janant that translates to the Envy of Heaven. The initial construction was started by his father, Hyder Ali, and later completed by his son. Following a quick glimpse at the summer rest house, we headed to the famous Tippu Drop. It is believed that prisoners condemned to die were forced down the 600-meter cliff. As the crowds started to build up, we decided it was time for us to head home. Before we decided to call it a day, we did check out the lovely nursery that was, unfortunately on that day, closed to visitors.

Nandi Hills has something for everyone. Fitness aficionados can hike along the numerous paths that traverse through the hills or join one of the cycling clubs that offer customized packages. You also have the Nandi Temple that’s dedicated to Bhoganandishwara and Yoganandeeshwara, and of course, a number of places to sip a hot cup of coffee during winters or a cold soda in the sweltering summers, although I wouldn’t recommend picnics, considering how audacious the monkeys are. Speaking of monkeys, I remember this rather amusing incident from when I was a little girl. A large group comprising my parents, grandparents, various aunts and cousins planned a picnic in Nandi Hills. No sooner did we open the food hamper, a dozen monkeys screamed and bared their teeth from the trees above, although they didn’t dare come down owing to the size of our group. This, however, did not deter the monkeys from calling out and watching the hamper from a safe distance. This continued for a few minutes, while my family, ignoring the bedlam, heartily tucked in.

This angered the monkeys who were used to terrorizing the smaller groups into parting with their food. One of the more enterprising ones then decided that he’d relieve himself from above. For reasons of privacy and respect for my family, I will not name who the recipient of the unwelcome shower was, but it was enough to send us scurrying into the car, packing the leftovers in a hurry.

Nandi Hills holds some fond memories for me. It is a reminder that not all vacations require complex planning and traveling all over the country or the world. If you’re looking for a quick and affordable getaway or some good locations for serious birding, there are several picturesque locations at a distance of between 60 to 100 kilometers from Bangalore that are ideal. The best part of such vacations is that they don’t burn your wallet!